D.C.’s unique blend of culture and politics can be felt through its food, but it wasn’t always that way. There are many moments and people that have contributed to how we eat in the District today.
1993: Jose Andrés Opens Jaleo
It’s hard to imagine a time when the Spanish chef and activist wasn’t a staple of the D.C. food scene. Opening Jaleo not only launched Andrés’ prolific restaurant empire — he now runs eight spots around the DMV — but the way he connects food, politics, and community became the language that changed the restaurant industry forever.
2004: Joe Englert Comes to H Street
If there’s one person we can thank for the vibrant nightlife of H Street, it’s probably Joe Englert. From places like Argonaut and the H Street Country Club, Englert injected the corridor with a quirkiness and creativity that’s helped make it one of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods.
Englert passed away in 2020, but his legacy will live on in the many bar owners he has inspired.
2015: Filipino Cuisine Takes Center Stage
From the moment Tom Cunanan opened Bad Saint in Columbia Heights, the bite-sized dining room was a hit, earning high praise and a James Beard Award. Yet another victim to pandemic struggles, Bad Saint closed in 2022, but its impact on popularizing Filipino food across D.C. cannot be overstated.
2019: Food Is Politics at Immigrant Food
If you’re not sure how to feel about the term “gastroadvocacy,” stop by Immigrant Food and be convinced. While many eateries aim to share stories via the dishes they serve, Immigrant Food makes conversations about immigration the main course. (But yes, the food is also divine.)
The smokehouse in Riverdale Park. (Courtesy of 2Fifty BBQ)
2020: Texas-Sized Barbecue by Way of El Salvador
When Fernando Gonzalez and Debbie Portillo came to the United States from El Salvador on temporary visas, they probably didn’t imagine they’d change what barbecue means in Washington, D.C. If you’ve ever tried their Wagyu brisket or brisket pupusas, you know that’s exactly what they accomplished. The mix of Salvadoran and Tex-Mex influences at 2Fifty Texas BBQ, both at their original smokehouse in Riverdale Park and their downtown outpost, is special.
These are just a few of the highlights that transformed D.C.’s food scene. Listen to our podcast conversation with City Cast DC contributor Tim Ebner for more defining moments, from the Steven Starr effect to the DMV’s first three-star Michelin restaurant.
