Mike Friedman – the chef behind D.C. standbys like Red Hen and All-Purpose – is opening two new restaurants today in Bethesda, Aventino Cucina and AP Pizza Shop. And they might just get me to drive to the burbs.
What To Expect From Aventino Cucina and AP Pizza
The adjoining Italian restaurants are two sides of a coin (or man in this case). Aventino Cucina combines Friedman’s love for Roman cuisine and Jewish heritage, while its neighbor AP Pizza is a takeout-style pizzeria similar to those Friedman grew up with outside New York.
“I have been on a collision course with this concept my entire career,” Friedman said about Aventino. “I feel like Italian cuisine and Jewish culture are two rivers that flow in the same direction but only really meet in Rome in the Jewish ghetto, and I wanted to explore that.”
Yum! What Should I Try?
Friedman says to expect both seasonal and classic dishes like homemade carbonara, oxtail ragu, and risotto fritters. Also, expect a massive Italian-leaning wine list and lots of negronis.
If you only get two things at Aventino, Friedman recommends the Acciughe e burro — an aperitivo with house-made sourdough, olive oil, garlic, butter, anchovies, and lemon zest — and the Tonnarelli — a cacio e pepe made with three different types of peppers.
Aperitivos at Aventino Cucina. (Photo by Scott Suchman)
Culinary Style
Friedman is dedicated to simplicity. He and his team source great ingredients and don’t want to hide them on the plate. Instead, he puts his efforts into getting the basics – salt, fat, acid, and spice – just right. Many of his dishes are nods to his upbringing in a Jewish household in an Italian neighborhood, as well as his travels through Italy.
Chefs are either artists or plumbers, and I’m a plumber. I prioritize the basics and doing them well
Mike Friedman
Where In DC Is Friedman Eating?
“I love eating anything but Italian food when I go out,” Friedman says. Some of his favorites include Anju, Taco Bamba, Yellow, and CHIKO. He also has a soft spot for a simple steak and often finds himself at Bourbon Steak and Woodmont Grill (also his favorite date spot). “I’m a big supporter of independent [spots], but also a supporter of delicious,” Friedman answers when asked about his taste.
Opening Day At Aventino
Friedman gave us the play-by-play of how it all goes down on opening day. “I get here at 9 a.m., we look at the prep list, and start getting going in the back. The dining room team comes in at 12 p.m. and starts at their places. At 2 p.m. we go over everything as a team then. At 4 p.m. we have family meal. Then 4:30 is pre-shift, where we talk as a front-of-house team. Then we open at 5 and get to work!”
