The DMV’s most lauded restaurant is in a rural Virginian town of less than 100 people. The Inn at Little Washington has held onto its rarefied three Michelin stars for the seventh year in a row and remains the only D.C.-area restaurant with the rating. Throughout its almost 50 years in existence, it has gone from a wood-fired stove in Chef Patrick O’Connell’s kitchen to a favorite of presidents and foreign ambassadors.
The French-inspired menu revolutionized the cooking scene in the DMV, modeling itself after European-style generational restaurants, but with local ingredients. We chatted with the legendary Chef O’Connell, who, at 79, still oversees the kitchen, about the journey and how they stay on top.
The Kitchen As Theater
O’Connell's career started in the most unlikely of places: theater school at Catholic University. He worked at restaurants to pay the bills and quickly realized his passion for it. “The improv that one goes through every night during service is more interesting and challenging than just acting,” O’Connell says.
Like any adolescent searching for meaning, O’Connell quit school, bought a Europass, and hightailed it to Europe. “Everything I tasted was a revelation; everything I ate was like I was eating it for the first time,” he remarked. O’Connell traveled for an entire year on $1000, reminiscing about $0.25 pasta in Italy and $1.50 hotel rooms in Greece — a far reach from The Inn at Little Washington, where dinner is now $388-per-person. But, for the first time, O’Connell saw that cooking could be a real career, not just a side gig.
The Inn Is Born
Upon returning, with no formal training other than religiously cooking through Julia Child's “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” O’Connell opened a catering business in rural Virginia with his then partner, Reinhardt Lynch. Everything was prepared over a wood stove in his home, but as demand grew, he decided to open a restaurant, Just two weeks after it opened in 1978, the Inn at Little Washington drew rave reviews. One, two, and three Michelin stars followed.
“Apparently a pear” dessert at The Inn At Little Washington. (Courtesy of The Brand Guild)
Sustainable By Necessity
“When we opened,” said O’Connell, “no one even thought about local or sustainable.” But he quickly realized that nothing was delivered out in rural Virginia. So, they had to create a menu based on what was available or what they could grow on their farm. The inn continues this practice today, even employing a full-time farmer-in-residence to care for its now expansive veggie and animal farm.
These ingredients have had a huge impact on O’Connell’s cooking style, often choosing to take local specialties like Virginia Ham and elevating them with French techniques. “My goal was to take the flavor memories I had as an American and put them together in new ways so they were on par with a three-star restaurant in France,” said O’Connell.
Avoiding The Ups and Downs of DC’s Restaurant Industry
Any restaurant that stays open in D.C. for more than 10 years is a revelation. The Inn at Little Washington has been open for almost 50. O’Connell says this is because he tries to emulate a European-style restaurant, which focuses on slow growth and quality rather than a quick return on investment like many U.S. restaurants.
“In Europe, they have a theory that to get three [Michelin] stars, you need to have been open for three generations,” says O’Connell. “In America, everything is about what's hot and new, but everyone who embraces that idea finds that when you’re no longer new, you become old and tired. That’s why we have so few three-star restaurants in America.”
Main dining room at The Inn At Little Washington. (Courtesy of The Brand Guild)
It’s About More Than Food
O’Connell describes the inn as an artist's collective. It is about all your senses, not just your taste buds. From the ambiance and adventure of the trip down to the seats and the plating to the pristine gardens and greenhouses, everything is meant to transport you to another realm. “It's like going to Europe without a passport,” claims O’Connell.
😋 Inside Scoop: Where In DC Is O’Connell Eating?
When he’s not in the kitchen, O’Connell prefers eating something as different from the Inn’s menu as possible. His favorite is Mama Chang’s in Fairfax. “I love everything about it. It's the kind of restaurant I always feel comfortable in. Time after time, they put out these complex dishes consistently,” he says.
