Ten years ago, Peter Chang opened his first Sichuan restaurant in the DMV. Now, he has 18. But before Chang became one of D.C.’s most famous restaurateurs — with a restaurant on the Michelin guide, and multiple TV appearances — he lived a life in hiding.
Chang's Winding Road To DC
Chang grew up as a farm boy in rural Hubei, a province in central China, in a house without electricity or a telephone. Like any teenage boy, he says he was drawn to culinary school at age 18 because, for the first time, he could eat in abundance.
After over a decade of learning from Sichuan chefs and making a name for himself, Chang took the foreign service cooking test. His high marks got him a position as chef at the Chinese Embassy in D.C. in 2001. “There was a family joke,” said his daughter Lydia, “If it wasn’t the U.S., it wasn’t anywhere.”
After his two year contract at the embassy was up, Chang saw an opportunity to build a better life for himself and his family in America, particularly for Lydia, who was in high school at the time. So, under cover of darkness, as if in a Hollywood thriller, Chang and his family grabbed their personal belongings and fled the embassy for good.
Full table at Chang Chang. (Adam Perkins/Hey DC reader)
Life On the Run
The next 10 years were tough on Chang and his family. He moved every few months, cooking in the back of various D.C. and Virginia restaurants under fake names, while avoiding Chinese bureaucrats and U.S. immigration officials. Without a formal ID, Chang couldn’t drive, travel, or get proper housing.
But, against all odds, Chang still began to gain a loyal following. Although he never announced where he was, his fans followed him from restaurant to restaurant, recognizing his food by the flavors and dishes on the menu.
When he got his permanent residency in 2011, he finally opened his own restaurant. He started in Charlottesville, opening Taste of China and later Peter Chang’s China Grill, before ending up back in the DMV.
Chang’s restaurants have since become a family affair. His daughter Lydia is a co-owner and oversees business operations, and his wife Lisa is a Chinese pastry chef and helps construct the menu.
Peking Duck at Q by Peter Chang (Courtesy of Peter Chang)
Uncompromising Spice
Chang entered the restaurant scene at a pivotal time for Chinese cuisine in America. For the first time, Americans were starting to recognize there was more to Chinese food than Panda Express.
But, unlike most Chinese chefs at the time, Chang refused to water down Sichuan flavors to adapt to the American palette. He filled his menu with spicy chili braised meats, mala numbing stirfries, and other traditional Sichuan dishes.
Like his early fans, I find myself returning regularly to Peter Chang’s various locations around the DMV. There are few Chinese spots in the area that equal his food’s flavor and consistency. Several chefs I have interviewed for this newsletter, including three Michelin star chef Chef Patrick O’Connell, name Chang’s restaurants among their favorites.
Xiao Long Bao (小笼包) from Chang Chang. (Courtesy of Peter Chang)
What’s On The Menu
Each Peter Chang location has a slightly different menu but all carry Sichuan classics like twice cooked pork belly (回锅肉), fragrant braised eggplant (鱼香茄子), and mapo tofu (麻婆豆腐). Chang has developed his own specialties over the years, which are all must try items. Think dry fried crispy fish (竹塔鱼), cold tofu skin salad (凉拌鲜豆腐), and of course his famous scallion pancake (葱油泡饼) which comes out shaped like a balloon. It’s best to go with friends so you can try a bit of everything.
What’s Next For The Chang Empire?
Chang has his sights set beyond just the DMV. Two locations are set to open in Philadelphia next year and more are being considered in New York and New Jersey after that. Closer to home, Chang is celebrating his 10th anniversary in the DMV with a special dinner party in June.
Where Is The Chang Family Eating?
Despite his daughter Lydia’s best attempts, she says her father’s palette is stubborn, insisting on Chinese food every couple of days, even on vacation. She also says any dinner that takes more than an hour is a no go, recalling the time she brought Chang to a Michelin star restaurant and he fell asleep between courses.
